Carb rebuild time

Ok I knew from the moment I got the car, that the carb wasn`t right. The car didn`t feel crisp it ran ok and it started right up but it wasn`t right. Also the gas consumption seem high, at under 20 mpg.

So I finally took it apart two weeks ago, omg the were so many things wrong with the carb. I never seen anything even close to the amount of damage. By the way the carb is a weber 32/36 dfav. The person who took it apart last, stripped 5 bolts, used goop on it no gaskets, used so much torque to bolt it down that it bent the actual carb body. He also strip the jets so much that it was impossible to tell the size of them. To top it off, he also stripped 2 of the studs on the manifold body.

So I spend about 3 hours getting this thing back into shape, tools need included a propane torch and c-clamps and mallet. After everything was put back together it ran better, the idle was good, but still not crisp. So I knew that the jetting was wrong.

Now no one had the jets in san diego, later I tried to order them online. But the company has a crappy internet order setup which met that I got an email days later telling me to fax the order in. That pissed me off, so I called around again. I finally got a guy that it seems willing to help me, I go down to place the order. Now he tells me that he gets his stuff from this people and that is going to take a week maybe two to get my jets. I just said thanks but no thanks.

Ok I go online again and go directly to TEP, I got all my jets in two days. Faster than the last time I ordered from them. Now the jetting specs I got were given to me and to other people by a bimmer guy named c.d. from the bmw2002faq forum. So I used the specifications that he uses, what a difference, the car runs way better and it pulls to red line. Now I`m waiting to see what mileage I get.

So thats how easy is to get your carb rebuild, I think is easy but you have to be careful.

Lowering the car

Ok I done this a few times so, it should be easy I have all the tools an expertise.
Started on the front right, the brake lines are not attached correctly also the look bad, need to put steel braided lines on. This went really smoth less than 30 minutes one done. Go to the other side, drop down the strut is time to remove strut bearing.

Omg as I take the rubber cap off I can see the horror, someone butcher the top of the strut. I mean they actually cracked the top, where allen wrench is suppose to go in. See you put a allen wrench in and with a wrench you loosen the locknut off. I had to slowly cut off the नुत, to remove the strut(which ruins) the strut. But there is no other way, since you can`t really hold it down to loosen it. At least I had a spare bilstein, so I put that one on.

Now I notice that the hub seems a little loose, I figured that the castle nut is loose. Another surprise I remove the dust cap and it has two castle nuts but no cotter pin, which is what actually keeps the nut from comming off. I remove one and went looking for the problem and I found it, the bearing was stock on the spindle, got it off by the way a dremmel is your best friend. Put a spare one on, attached the brake lines correctly.
Bam my 1 hour job was finished in three hours, because I had the tools and spare parts on hand.

Tomorrow tha back end goes down.